@font-face{font-family:'Noto Field';src:url('/assets/fonts/noto-jp.ttf') format('truetype');font-weight:400;font-display:swap}@font-face{font-family:'DM Sans';src:url('/assets/fonts/dmsans.ttf') format('truetype');font-weight:100 1000;font-display:swap}@font-face{font-family:Fraunces;src:url('/assets/fonts/fraunces.ttf') format('truetype');font-weight:100 900;font-display:swap}
:root{--paper:#f6f3eb;--surface:#eeebe2;--card:#faf8f1;--ink:#242c29;--muted:#60665e;--accent:#b63629;--accent-ink:#fff9f0;--line:#d9d9ce;--glass:rgba(246,243,235,.91);--serif:Fraunces,Georgia,serif;--sans:'DM Sans','Noto Field',Arial,sans-serif;color-scheme:light}
:root[data-theme=dark]{--paper:#171e1b;--surface:#202923;--card:#222b25;--ink:#eeeede;--muted:#b8c0b4;--accent:#ff8b73;--accent-ink:#1b201b;--line:#3b473d;--glass:rgba(23,30,27,.93);color-scheme:dark}
@media(prefers-color-scheme:dark){:root:not([data-theme]){--paper:#171e1b;--surface:#202923;--card:#222b25;--ink:#eeeede;--muted:#b8c0b4;--accent:#ff8b73;--accent-ink:#1b201b;--line:#3b473d;--glass:rgba(23,30,27,.93);color-scheme:dark}}
*,*::before,*::after{box-sizing:border-box}html{scroll-behavior:smooth;scroll-padding-top:110px}body{margin:0;background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);font-family:var(--sans);font-size:16px;line-height:1.65;-webkit-font-smoothing:antialiased}button,input,select{font:inherit}button,a,input,select{-webkit-tap-highlight-color:transparent}button{cursor:pointer}a{color:inherit;text-decoration:none}img{max-width:100%;display:block}svg{width:22px;height:22px;stroke:currentColor;stroke-width:1.5;fill:none;stroke-linecap:round;stroke-linejoin:round}button{color:inherit}::selection{background:var(--accent);color:var(--accent-ink)}:focus-visible{outline:2px solid var(--accent);outline-offset:5px}main:focus{outline:none}h1,h2,h3,p{margin-top:0}h1,h2,h3{font-weight:400;text-wrap:balance}h1,h2{font-family:var(--serif);font-variation-settings:'SOFT' 50,'WONK' 1;letter-spacing:-.045em;line-height:1.08}h2{font-size:clamp(2.5rem,4.1vw,4.1rem)}h3{line-height:1.25}em{font-style:italic;color:var(--accent)}.wrap{width:min(1280px,calc(100% - 112px));margin-inline:auto}.eyebrow,.section-kicker{display:block;font-size:10px;font-weight:650;letter-spacing:.19em;line-height:1.6}.eyebrow{margin-bottom:22px}.section-kicker{color:var(--accent);margin-bottom:16px}.tiny-dot{display:inline-block;width:6px;height:6px;border-radius:50%;background:currentColor;margin-right:9px;vertical-align:2px}.skip-link{position:fixed;z-index:100;top:10px;left:12px;padding:12px 20px;transform:translateY(-150%);background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink)}.skip-link:focus{transform:translateY(0)}
.site-header{position:fixed;inset:0 0 auto;z-index:30;background:var(--glass);backdrop-filter:blur(20px);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);transition:background .25s,color .25s}.header-inner{width:min(1440px,calc(100% - 72px));height:88px;margin:auto;display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:24px}.brand{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:12px;min-height:44px;flex-shrink:0}.brand>span:last-child{font-size:21px;font-weight:600;letter-spacing:.12em;line-height:1.2}.brand small{display:block;font-size:7px;font-weight:500;letter-spacing:.16em;margin-top:5px}.brand-seal{width:36px;height:36px;display:grid;place-content:center;background:var(--accent);color:var(--accent-ink);border-radius:50%;font-family:'Noto Field',serif;font-size:21px;line-height:1}.desktop-nav{display:flex;gap:28px;align-items:center}.desktop-nav a{font-size:12px;min-height:44px;display:flex;align-items:center;position:relative}.desktop-nav a::after{content:'';height:1px;background:currentColor;position:absolute;bottom:8px;left:0;width:0;transition:width .2s}.desktop-nav a:hover::after{width:100%}.header-tools{display:flex;gap:7px;align-items:center}.icon-button{border:0;background:transparent;min-width:44px;min-height:44px;padding:10px;display:inline-flex;gap:8px;align-items:center;justify-content:center;border-radius:50%;transition:background .2s,transform .2s}.icon-button:hover{background:color-mix(in srgb,currentColor 9%,transparent);transform:translateY(-1px)}.search-toggle{border-radius:2px;font-size:11px}.menu-toggle{display:none}.is-home .site-header:not(.is-scrolled){background:transparent;backdrop-filter:none;border-color:rgba(255,255,255,.18);color:#fff}.is-home .site-header:not(.is-scrolled) .brand-seal{background:#e75a43;color:#fff}.mobile-menu{background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);padding:16px 28px 25px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.mobile-menu a{display:flex;align-items:center;min-height:46px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);font-size:18px}.mobile-menu[hidden]{display:none}.reading-progress{position:fixed;top:88px;left:0;z-index:31;height:2px;width:0;background:var(--accent);pointer-events:none}
.hero{height:min(960px,100svh);min-height:720px;position:relative;overflow:hidden;background:#232b23;color:#fff}.hero-photo{position:absolute;inset:0;width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;object-position:50% 48%}.hero-shade{position:absolute;inset:0;background:linear-gradient(90deg,rgba(5,15,11,.68) 0%,rgba(8,14,12,.35) 58%,rgba(8,14,12,.05) 100%),linear-gradient(0deg,rgba(8,16,12,.65) 0%,transparent 30%,transparent 65%,rgba(6,14,9,.65) 100%)}#particles{position:absolute;inset:0;width:100%;height:100%;pointer-events:none;opacity:.5}.hero-content{position:relative;padding-top:190px;padding-bottom:120px}.hero-eyebrow{font-size:10px;letter-spacing:.24em;margin-bottom:34px}.hero h1{font-size:clamp(4.5rem,7.6vw,7.5rem);line-height:.98;letter-spacing:-.055em;max-width:9.8ch;margin-bottom:30px;color:#fff8ec}.hero-dek{font-size:17px;line-height:1.65;letter-spacing:.01em;margin-bottom:34px;max-width:320px}.button{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:40px;min-height:54px;padding:15px 23px;font-size:12px;font-weight:550;line-height:1.5;border:1px solid transparent;transition:transform .22s,box-shadow .22s,background .22s}.button:hover{transform:translateY(-3px);box-shadow:0 9px 20px rgba(0,0,0,.1)}.button-light{background:#f8f5ec;color:#1c2b21}.button-accent{background:var(--accent);color:var(--accent-ink)}.button-outline{border-color:var(--line);background:transparent}.hero-secondary{display:inline-flex;gap:18px;align-items:center;margin-left:28px;font-size:11px;min-height:44px;color:#fff}.hero-secondary:hover{text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:5px}.hero-bottom{position:absolute;bottom:30px;left:0;right:0;display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;font-size:10px;letter-spacing:.16em}.hero-bottom>span:first-child{font-family:'Noto Field',serif;font-size:22px;display:flex;gap:15px;align-items:center}.hero-location{font-family:var(--sans);font-size:9px;letter-spacing:.16em}.hero-bottom>span:last-child{display:flex;gap:30px;align-items:center}
.intro-section{padding-block:125px;display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:9%}.intro-section h2{font-size:clamp(2.8rem,4.5vw,4.6rem);margin-bottom:0}.intro-copy{padding-top:12px}.prose{font-size:17px;line-height:1.85}.prose p{margin-bottom:1.2em}.prose a:not(.button){color:var(--accent);text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:3px}.prose ul{padding-left:1.3em}.prose li{margin-bottom:14px}.prose strong{font-weight:650}.intro-copy p{font-size:16px}.inline-link{display:inline-flex;gap:22px;align-items:center;min-height:44px;font-size:12px;font-weight:600;text-underline-offset:5px}.inline-link:hover{text-decoration:underline}.destinations-section{background:var(--surface);padding-block:100px}.section-heading{display:flex;gap:30px;align-items:flex-end;justify-content:space-between;margin-bottom:42px}.section-heading h2{margin-bottom:0}.section-heading .eyebrow{margin-bottom:15px}.city-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.4fr 1fr 1fr;grid-template-rows:300px 235px;gap:18px}.city-card{position:relative;overflow:hidden;background:#29372b;color:#fff;display:flex;align-items:flex-end;isolation:isolate;transition:transform .3s}.city-card:hover{transform:translateY(-4px)}.city-card:first-child{grid-row:span 2}.city-card img{position:absolute;inset:0;width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;transition:transform .65s}.city-card:hover img{transform:scale(1.045)}.city-card::after{content:'';position:absolute;inset:0;background:linear-gradient(0deg,rgba(9,20,14,.9),rgba(9,20,14,.18) 70%);z-index:0}.city-card>div{position:relative;z-index:1;padding:28px;width:100%}.city-card>div>span:first-child{font-size:8px;letter-spacing:.16em}.city-card h3{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:38px;letter-spacing:-.03em;margin:10px 0}.city-card:first-child h3{font-size:55px}.city-card p{font-size:12px;line-height:1.7;color:#f1f0e4;max-width:270px;margin-bottom:15px}.city-card>div>span:last-child{font-size:10px;font-weight:600}.city-card.no-photo{background:var(--card);color:var(--ink);border:1px solid var(--line)}.city-card.no-photo::after{display:none}.city-card.no-photo p{color:var(--muted)}.city-initial{position:absolute;right:15px;top:0;font-family:'Noto Field',serif;font-size:130px;color:var(--ink);opacity:.055;line-height:1.2}.editorial-note{margin:24px 0 0;font-size:11px;color:var(--muted);letter-spacing:.025em}.chapters-section{padding-block:120px;display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1.25fr;gap:12%}.chapter-intro h2{font-size:clamp(2.8rem,3.7vw,3.9rem);margin-bottom:25px}.chapter-intro p{color:var(--muted);font-size:15px;max-width:330px}.chapter-intro .inline-link{margin-top:12px}.chapter-link{display:flex;gap:25px;align-items:center;min-height:112px;border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding:22px 0;transition:padding .2s}.chapter-link:last-child{border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.chapter-link:hover{padding-left:10px}.chapter-number{font-size:10px;color:var(--muted);align-self:flex-start;padding-top:6px}.chapter-link>span:nth-child(2){flex:1}.chapter-link strong{display:block;font-family:var(--serif);font-size:25px;font-weight:400;letter-spacing:-.02em}.chapter-link small{display:block;color:var(--muted);font-size:11px;line-height:1.6;max-width:390px;margin-top:6px}.chapter-link>span:last-child{font-size:22px}
.food-feature{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;background:var(--surface)}.food-image-wrap{position:relative;min-height:670px;background:#303727;overflow:hidden}.food-photo{width:100%;height:100%;position:absolute;object-fit:cover}.image-caption{position:absolute;bottom:20px;left:28px;color:white;font-size:8px;letter-spacing:.17em;padding:8px 10px;background:rgba(10,15,10,.7)}.food-copy{padding:90px clamp(35px,7vw,125px) 60px 65px;align-self:center}.food-copy h2{font-size:clamp(2.8rem,4vw,4.4rem)}.food-copy>p{font-size:15px;line-height:1.9;color:var(--muted);max-width:420px;margin-bottom:32px}.food-lexicon{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:10px 22px;border-top:1px solid var(--line);margin-top:55px;padding-top:20px;font-size:8px;letter-spacing:.1em;color:var(--muted)}.budget-section{padding-block:115px}.budget-intro{max-width:660px;color:var(--muted);font-size:13px;margin-top:-20px;margin-bottom:36px}.budget-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr);gap:20px}.budget-card{border:1px solid var(--line);padding:38px 32px 28px;background:var(--card);display:flex;flex-direction:column;transition:transform .2s,box-shadow .2s}.budget-card:hover{transform:translateY(-3px);box-shadow:0 12px 30px #00000008}.budget-card .eyebrow{font-size:8px;margin-bottom:20px;color:var(--muted)}.budget-card h3{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:27px;margin-bottom:25px;letter-spacing:-.03em}.budget-amount{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:39px;letter-spacing:-.04em;margin-bottom:22px}.budget-amount small{font-family:var(--sans);font-size:10px;letter-spacing:0;color:var(--muted)}.budget-card>p:not(.budget-amount){font-size:12px;line-height:1.9;color:var(--muted);flex:1;margin-bottom:28px}.budget-card>a{font-size:11px;min-height:44px;display:flex;align-items:center;border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding-top:16px}.budget-featured{background:var(--ink);color:var(--paper);border-color:var(--ink)}.budget-featured .eyebrow,.budget-featured>p:not(.budget-amount),.budget-featured small{color:var(--paper);opacity:.85}.budget-featured>a{border-color:color-mix(in srgb,var(--paper) 30%,transparent)}
.closing-section{background:var(--surface);position:relative;overflow:hidden}.closing-inner{padding-block:105px;position:relative}.closing-inner h2{font-size:clamp(3.6rem,6.7vw,7rem);line-height:1.04;max-width:820px;margin-bottom:25px}.closing-inner>p{font-size:14px;color:var(--muted);margin-bottom:30px}.closing-kanji{position:absolute;right:5%;bottom:40px;font-family:'Noto Field',serif;font-size:clamp(200px,30vw,420px);opacity:.035;line-height:1;pointer-events:none}.site-footer{padding:60px max(36px,calc((100vw - 1280px)/2)) 24px;background:var(--paper)}.footer-top{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1.1fr 1fr;gap:40px;align-items:start;padding-bottom:55px}.footer-top>p{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:21px;line-height:1.5;letter-spacing:-.02em}.footer-top nav{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:6px 20px}.footer-top nav a{font-size:11px;min-height:44px;display:flex;align-items:center}.footer-top nav a:hover{text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:5px}.footer-bottom{display:flex;gap:22px;justify-content:space-between;border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding-top:22px;font-size:9px;color:var(--muted)}
.chapter-hero{padding-top:140px;padding-bottom:55px}.breadcrumb{display:block;min-height:44px;font-size:8px;letter-spacing:.17em;color:var(--muted);margin-bottom:24px}.breadcrumb span{margin-left:14px}.chapter-hero>.eyebrow{color:var(--accent);margin-bottom:22px}.chapter-hero h1{font-size:clamp(3.6rem,6.1vw,6.5rem);max-width:19ch;margin-bottom:25px}.chapter-dek{font-size:18px;color:var(--muted);max-width:630px;line-height:1.65}.chapter-image{width:100%;height:370px;object-fit:cover;margin-top:45px}.article-layout{display:grid;grid-template-columns:220px minmax(0,800px);gap:85px;padding-bottom:100px;align-items:start}.article-sidebar{position:sticky;top:125px}.article-sidebar>.eyebrow{font-size:8px;color:var(--muted);margin-bottom:20px}.article-sidebar nav{display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:4px}.article-sidebar nav a{font-size:12px;line-height:1.6;min-height:44px;padding-block:9px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.article-sidebar nav a:hover{color:var(--accent)}.sidebar-link{display:flex;align-items:center;min-height:44px;font-size:10px;margin-top:22px;color:var(--accent)}.article-body{min-width:0}.article-section{padding:45px 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);scroll-margin-top:120px}.article-section:first-child{padding-top:0}.article-section h2{font-size:clamp(2rem,3.3vw,3.1rem);margin-bottom:25px;line-height:1.15}.article-section .section-kicker{font-size:8px}.source-note{font-size:10px;line-height:1.9;color:var(--muted);margin-top:28px;overflow-wrap:anywhere}.source-note a{text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:3px}.source-note span{font-size:9px}.entry-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:15px;margin-top:30px}.entry-card{background:var(--surface);border:1px solid var(--line);padding:22px;display:flex;flex-direction:column}.entry-meta{font-size:8px;letter-spacing:.1em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--muted);margin-bottom:14px}.entry-card h3{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:23px;letter-spacing:-.025em;margin-bottom:12px}.entry-card h3 a:hover{color:var(--accent)}.entry-card p{font-size:12px;color:var(--muted);line-height:1.8;flex:1;margin-bottom:18px}.save-button{border:0;border-top:1px solid var(--line);background:transparent;padding:12px 0 0;text-align:left;font-size:10px;min-height:44px}.save-button span{margin-right:8px;font-size:16px}.save-button:hover,.save-button[aria-pressed=true]{color:var(--accent)}.article-end{padding:45px 0 0}.article-end p{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:28px;margin-bottom:24px}.article-end .eyebrow{font-size:8px;color:var(--muted)}.table-wrap{overflow-x:auto;max-width:100%;margin-block:28px}table{border-collapse:collapse;min-width:540px;width:100%;font-size:12px;line-height:1.6}caption{caption-side:bottom;text-align:left;font-size:10px;color:var(--muted);padding-top:14px}th,td{padding:15px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);text-align:left;vertical-align:top}thead{background:var(--surface)}thead th{font-size:10px;font-weight:650}tbody th{font-weight:500}.total-row{color:var(--accent)}.source-directory{padding-left:24px}.source-directory li{font-size:12px;line-height:1.8;margin-bottom:18px}.source-directory a{text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:3px}.article-body>h2{font-size:32px;margin-top:50px}.article-body>ul{font-size:13px;line-height:2;padding-left:20px;overflow-wrap:anywhere}
.tool-notice:not([hidden]){position:fixed;z-index:40;bottom:16px;left:16px;max-width:min(430px,calc(100% - 32px));padding:14px 20px;background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);border:1px solid var(--line);box-shadow:0 8px 35px #0002;font-size:12px}.mobile-menu{max-height:calc(100svh - 76px);overflow:auto}.notes-reset{margin-top:25px}.search-dialog{width:min(760px,calc(100% - 32px));max-height:calc(100svh - 60px);border:1px solid var(--line);padding:30px 36px;background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);box-shadow:0 30px 120px #0005;overflow:auto}.search-dialog::backdrop{background:rgba(9,17,12,.7);backdrop-filter:blur(5px)}.dialog-top{display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:20px}.dialog-top .eyebrow{font-size:8px;margin:0}.search-dialog h2{font-size:44px;margin:14px 0 24px}.search-label{font-size:11px;display:block;margin-bottom:9px}input[type=search],select{border:1px solid var(--line);background:var(--card);color:var(--ink);min-height:48px;padding:12px;border-radius:0}input[type=search]{width:100%;font-size:17px}select{display:block;width:100%;font-size:12px}.search-filters{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr auto;gap:16px;margin-top:20px;align-items:end}.search-filters label{font-size:10px}.search-filters label select{margin-top:6px}.text-button{min-height:44px;border:0;background:transparent;text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:5px;font-size:11px;padding:10px 0}.search-dialog [role=status]{font-size:11px;color:var(--muted);margin-block:22px 15px}.search-result{display:block;border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding:18px 4px}.search-result strong{display:block;font-family:var(--serif);font-size:23px;font-weight:400}.search-result small{display:block;font-size:10px;letter-spacing:.06em;color:var(--muted);margin-bottom:5px}.search-result p{font-size:12px;line-height:1.7;color:var(--muted);margin:8px 0 0}.search-result:hover strong{color:var(--accent)}.notes-tools{padding-top:45px}.notes-tools h2{font-size:34px}.notes-tools .section-heading{align-items:center;margin-top:25px;margin-bottom:15px}.notes-tools .section-heading h2{margin:0}.notes-tools [role=status]{font-size:12px;color:var(--muted)}.empty-state{border:1px solid var(--line);background:var(--surface);padding:28px;font-size:14px;margin-bottom:45px}.saved-item{border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding:20px 0;display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:20px}.saved-item h3{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:25px;margin-bottom:8px}.saved-item small{font-size:10px;color:var(--muted)}.saved-item p{font-size:12px;margin-bottom:0;color:var(--muted)}.checklist{margin-top:20px}.check-item{display:flex;gap:18px;padding:23px 0;border-top:1px solid var(--line);cursor:pointer}.check-item input{width:21px;height:21px;flex-shrink:0;margin-top:4px;accent-color:var(--accent)}.check-item strong{font-size:14px;font-weight:550}.check-item small{display:block;font-size:12px;line-height:1.8;color:var(--muted);margin-top:7px}.check-item small a{text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:3px}.check-item:has(input:checked) strong{text-decoration:line-through;color:var(--muted)}.noscript-note{padding:20px;font-size:13px;border-top:1px solid var(--line);text-align:center}.error-page{padding-block:15vh;min-height:100svh}.error-page h1{font-size:clamp(3.8rem,8vw,7rem)}.error-page p{max-width:500px;margin-bottom:30px}.status-error{border:1px solid var(--line);padding:20px;font-size:14px}.article-body .city-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;grid-template-rows:auto;margin-bottom:50px}.article-body .city-card{min-height:300px}.article-body .city-card:first-child{grid-row:auto}.article-body .city-card:first-child h3{font-size:38px}
@media(min-width:1800px){.hero-content{padding-top:210px}}
@media(max-width:1100px){.desktop-nav{gap:17px}.header-inner{width:calc(100% - 48px);gap:16px}.wrap{width:calc(100% - 72px)}.search-toggle span{display:none}.article-layout{grid-template-columns:180px minmax(0,1fr);gap:45px}.food-copy{padding:65px 36px}.city-card>div{padding:22px}.city-grid{grid-template-rows:290px 255px}.budget-card{padding:30px 23px}.footer-top{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}.footer-top nav{grid-column:2}.footer-top>p{margin-bottom:0}.chapters-section{gap:8%}}
@media(max-width:900px){.desktop-nav{display:none}.menu-toggle{display:inline-flex}.site-header:has(.mobile-menu:not([hidden])){background:var(--paper)!important;color:var(--ink)!important}.hero{min-height:720px;height:95svh;max-height:900px}.hero-content{padding-top:190px}.hero h1{font-size:clamp(4.5rem,9vw,6.3rem)}.hero-secondary{margin-left:0;display:flex;margin-top:12px;width:fit-content}.intro-section{gap:6%;padding-block:85px}.intro-section h2{font-size:3.1rem}.intro-copy{padding-top:0}.destinations-section{padding-block:75px}.city-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;grid-template-rows:380px 280px 225px}.city-card:first-child{grid-column:span 2;grid-row:auto}.city-card:first-child>div{width:60%}.city-card:nth-child(2),.city-card:nth-child(3){grid-row:2}.city-card:nth-child(4),.city-card:nth-child(5){grid-row:3}.city-card h3{font-size:32px}.chapters-section{padding-block:85px;grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:35px}.chapter-intro{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:0 50px;align-items:start}.chapter-intro>.eyebrow{grid-column:span 2}.chapter-intro h2{grid-row:span 2}.chapter-intro .inline-link{margin-top:0}.food-image-wrap{min-height:550px}.food-copy h2{font-size:3rem}.food-copy{padding:50px 30px}.food-lexicon{margin-top:30px}.budget-card h3{font-size:23px}.budget-amount{font-size:31px}.budget-section{padding-block:80px}.article-layout{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:30px}.article-sidebar{position:static;border-block:1px solid var(--line);padding-block:20px}.article-sidebar nav{display:flex;flex-flow:row wrap;gap:2px 22px}.article-sidebar nav a{border:0;min-height:44px;font-size:11px}.article-sidebar .eyebrow{margin-bottom:10px}.sidebar-link{display:none}.chapter-hero{padding-top:125px;padding-bottom:30px}.chapter-hero h1{max-width:18ch}.chapter-image{height:330px}.article-body{max-width:800px}.article-section:first-child{padding-top:15px}.article-body .city-grid{grid-template-rows:auto}.article-body .city-card{grid-row:auto;grid-column:auto}.article-body .city-card:first-child>div{width:100%}}
@media(max-width:600px){.wrap{width:calc(100% - 40px)}.header-inner{width:calc(100% - 32px);height:76px;gap:8px}.site-header .brand{gap:9px}.brand-seal{width:32px;height:32px;font-size:19px}.brand>span:last-child{font-size:18px}.brand small{font-size:5.5px;letter-spacing:.13em}.header-tools{gap:0}.icon-button{padding:10px;min-width:44px}.reading-progress{top:76px}.hero{height:calc(100svh - 15px);min-height:710px;max-height:900px}.hero-content{padding-top:165px;padding-bottom:120px}.hero h1{font-size:clamp(4rem,14vw,5.5rem);max-width:9ch;line-height:1.02;margin-bottom:25px}.hero-eyebrow{font-size:8px;letter-spacing:.16em;margin-bottom:28px}.hero-dek{font-size:15px;margin-bottom:27px}.hero-photo{object-position:58% 50%}.hero-shade{background:linear-gradient(90deg,rgba(5,15,11,.67),rgba(5,15,11,.25)),linear-gradient(0deg,rgba(5,15,11,.85),transparent 40%,rgba(5,15,11,.4))}.hero-secondary{font-size:10px;margin-top:9px}.hero-bottom{bottom:25px}.hero-bottom>span:last-child{font-size:7px;letter-spacing:.11em;gap:9px;max-width:140px;text-align:right}.hero-location{font-size:7px}.hero-bottom>span:first-child{font-size:19px;gap:9px}.button{font-size:11px;min-height:52px;padding:15px 20px;gap:30px}.intro-section{padding-block:65px;display:block}.intro-section h2{font-size:2.9rem;margin-bottom:30px}.eyebrow{font-size:8px;margin-bottom:18px}.intro-copy p{font-size:14px;line-height:1.9}.intro-copy .inline-link{font-size:11px}.section-heading{display:block;margin-bottom:28px}.section-heading h2{font-size:2.65rem}.section-heading>.inline-link{margin-top:12px}.destinations-section{padding-block:60px}.city-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;grid-template-rows:385px 315px 240px;gap:12px}.city-card:first-child>div{width:85%}.city-card:first-child h3{font-size:46px}.city-card>div{padding:18px}.city-card h3{font-size:28px}.city-card p{font-size:10px;line-height:1.7}.city-card>div>span:first-child{font-size:6px;letter-spacing:.12em}.city-card>div>span:last-child{font-size:9px}.city-card img{object-position:50%}.city-card.no-photo>div{padding:17px}.city-initial{font-size:85px;top:12px;right:8px}.editorial-note{font-size:10px}.chapters-section{padding-block:65px;gap:30px}.chapter-intro{display:block}.chapter-intro h2{font-size:2.8rem}.chapter-intro p{font-size:14px;max-width:none}.chapter-link{gap:18px;min-height:105px}.chapter-link strong{font-size:23px}.chapter-link small{font-size:10px}.chapter-number{font-size:9px}.food-feature{grid-template-columns:1fr}.food-image-wrap{min-height:360px;order:1}.food-copy{padding:55px 24px 45px;order:0}.food-copy h2{font-size:3rem}.food-copy>p{font-size:14px;max-width:none}.food-lexicon{font-size:7px;margin-top:35px;gap:15px}.budget-section{padding-block:60px}.budget-intro{margin-top:0;font-size:12px;line-height:1.8}.budget-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:15px}.budget-card{padding:28px}.budget-card h3{font-size:28px;margin-bottom:15px}.budget-card .eyebrow{margin-bottom:15px}.budget-amount{font-size:40px;margin-bottom:18px}.budget-card>p:not(.budget-amount){font-size:13px;margin-bottom:20px}.budget-card>a{font-size:12px}.closing-inner{padding-block:65px}.closing-inner h2{font-size:3.7rem}.closing-inner>p{font-size:12px;line-height:1.9}.closing-inner>p br{display:none}.closing-kanji{right:-10%;bottom:20px;font-size:240px}.closing-inner .eyebrow{font-size:7px;letter-spacing:.12em}.site-footer{padding:45px 24px 25px}.footer-top{display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:28px;padding-bottom:30px}.footer-top>p{font-size:21px}.footer-top nav{gap:4px 25px;width:100%}.footer-top nav a{font-size:11px;min-height:44px}.footer-bottom{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:10px 22px;font-size:8px}.chapter-hero{padding-top:110px;padding-bottom:25px}.breadcrumb{font-size:7px;margin-bottom:18px}.chapter-hero h1{font-size:clamp(2.9rem,12vw,4rem);line-height:1.06;letter-spacing:-.045em;margin-bottom:22px}.chapter-hero .eyebrow{font-size:8px;margin-bottom:18px}.chapter-dek{font-size:15px}.chapter-image{height:245px;margin-top:30px}.article-sidebar nav{gap:1px 16px}.article-sidebar nav a{font-size:10px}.article-layout{padding-bottom:65px;gap:25px}.article-section{padding-block:35px}.article-section h2{font-size:2rem;line-height:1.15}.prose{font-size:15px;line-height:1.9}.source-note{font-size:9px;line-height:2}.source-note span{font-size:8px}.entry-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:12px}.entry-card{padding:23px}.entry-card h3{font-size:25px}.entry-card p{font-size:13px}.save-button{font-size:11px}.article-end p{font-size:25px}.search-dialog{padding:22px;max-height:calc(100svh - 28px)}.search-dialog h2{font-size:34px;margin-top:18px}.search-filters{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:12px}.search-filters .text-button{grid-column:span 2;text-align:left;padding-top:0}.search-result strong{font-size:22px}.search-result p{font-size:12px}.notes-tools .section-heading{display:flex;gap:12px;align-items:start}.notes-tools h2{font-size:29px}.check-item{gap:14px}.check-item strong{font-size:13px}.check-item small{font-size:11px}.check-item input{min-width:22px;min-height:22px}.article-body .city-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr}.article-body .city-card{min-height:320px}.article-body .city-card:first-child>div{width:100%}input[type=search]{font-size:16px}.error-page{padding-top:20vh}}
@media(prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){html{scroll-behavior:auto}*,*::before,*::after{animation-duration:.01ms!important;transition-duration:.01ms!important;animation-iteration-count:1!important}#particles{display:none}.city-card:hover,.button:hover,.icon-button:hover{transform:none}}
.no-js .header-tools{visibility:hidden}.no-js .save-button,.no-js [data-clear-saved],.no-js [data-reset-guide]{display:none}@media(max-width:900px){.no-js .mobile-menu[hidden]{display:block!important}.no-js .site-header{position:relative;background:var(--paper)!important;color:var(--ink)!important}.no-js .chapter-hero{padding-top:40px}.no-js .hero-content{padding-top:80px}}
@media print{body{background:white;color:black;font-family:Arial,sans-serif;font-size:12pt}.site-header,.reading-progress,.article-sidebar,.site-footer,.search-dialog,.save-button,.header-tools,.hero-photo,.hero-shade,#particles,.button,.article-end,.closing-section,.noscript-note{display:none!important}.wrap{width:100%;margin:0}.article-layout{display:block;padding:0}.chapter-hero{padding:0}.chapter-hero h1{font-size:30pt;max-width:none}.chapter-image{height:180px;object-fit:cover}.article-section{break-inside:avoid;padding:16pt 0}.prose{font-size:12pt;line-height:1.5}.source-note{font-size:9pt}.entry-grid{display:block}.entry-card{margin-bottom:10pt}.hero{height:auto;min-height:0;background:none;color:black}.hero-content{padding:0}.hero h1{color:black;font-size:34pt}.hero-bottom{display:none}.intro-section,.chapters-section{display:block;padding:20pt 0}.city-grid{display:block}.city-card{min-height:0;background:none;color:black}.city-card img,.city-card::after{display:none}.city-card p{color:black}.food-feature{display:block}.food-image-wrap{display:none}.food-copy{padding:20pt 0}.budget-section{padding:20pt 0}.budget-grid{display:block}.budget-card{border:1px solid #ccc;background:white;color:black;margin-bottom:10pt}.budget-card p,.budget-card .eyebrow,.budget-card small{color:black!important}.table-wrap{overflow:visible}table{min-width:0}.source-directory{font-size:10pt}}